You ordered your grape stocks about 6, maybe 12, months ago. It is currently spring and they've just been delivered. Or maybe you've grown your personal plants the previous spring and have taken them beyond storage. The holes are dug and you are now ready to plant out of the vineyard - finally! Let me give you my first secret grapevines pruning tip. Here's something I would suggest you do before actually planting your grapevines. Pruning rid of it to retain exactly the strongest cane is much simpler when done before planting. Sometimes, two canes might be retained depending on whether the plant will be taught to a single- or a double-trunk system or as insurance against one cane failing. For your canes remaining on your own grapevines, pruning each back to only three strong buds provides the basis for a good vine structure. Make sure to trim off any broken or overly long roots too. Grapevines pruning, when done right, allows your vineyard to:
Develop good, strong vine structure
Optimize canopy sunlight exposure
Produce excellent grapes and optimize yield
Promote next year's fruiting wood growth
Reduce disease and bug damage
With grapevines pruning, what you can do to identify good quality fruiting canes to retain for cropping is crucial. Here's my second secret grapevines pruning tip: Once the green shoots on your own grapevines mature through late summer and fall, you will observe a change in color from green to reddish-brown since they develop a layer of bark (periderm) and grow hard. Pencil thick, round, well-browned canes with plump buds about 3 to three.5 inches apart result in the healthiest grapevines. Pruning off flattened canes with poor color and long internodes will leave the best wood for next year's crop. Selecting canes which may have developed outside the canopy along exposure to sunlight will provide you with better yields.
Sprinkler System Installation Grapevine
The aim of the first growing months are to develop a straight upright trunk that eventually reaches the cordon wire in the trellis. If the developing canes fall over, vertical growth on the terminal cane will probably be held up and the lateral buds in the highest point for the cane will begin to grow. This will likely hamper correct trunk development. Therefore, it is necessary to tie the developing canes to stakes (using twines) and take off lateral shoots. In the event the trunk reaches the required wire, pinch off the tip of the trunk with the lateral shoots just below the height of the cordon wire and train the shoots in opposite directions along that wire. If by using a trellis system with Two or more levels of cordon wires, pinch over tip only when a corner reaches the top wire. Removing lateral shoots and any grape clusters at bloom may also promote vertical growth.
Any leaves growing on the developing canes needs to be retained as they generate the required carbohydrates for nourishing your grapevines. Pruning throughout the first growing season promotes trunk development with the expense of root development. A greater root system promotes better top growth the next year. There is an argument because of not performing any grapevines pruning whatsoever during the first year - just train all canes to the desired wire. Which option to follow will depend on the other vineyard management practices you have in place. Grapevines pruning can be an ongoing vineyard maintenance task which should be performed every year. The very first 3 years are critical as each season's activity has a different objective. Revisit for more insights on everything you should know about growing grapevines, pruning methods and more of my secret tips. At the same time, get to it - try not to be afraid to cut back your grape vines - they find it irresistible!